Packing Glasses and Stemware

For a glass or piece of stemware, initially wrap each piece loosely in a sheet of newsprint. Then, wrap the item more tightly in a second sheet. Glasses and stemware should always be stood on end in the dish pack. A paper collar is sometimes employed to provide additional support around an item before loosely wrapping it in a sheet of newsprint.

Stuff some crumpled newsprint inside a glass vase or pitcher to provide support to its sides. A fragile piece like this should be wrapped in bubblekraft or brown paper pads and packed in the top or second layer of the dishpack. Before sealing the moving box, put a layer of cushioning material on top of the glasses. However, be aware of overdoing the cushioning on the top of a box that contains extremely delicate stemware. The extra "protection" on the top of this type of a box may actually press down too much into the box, placing unnecessary and excessive pressure on top of the stemware.

Do not be afraid to use extra paper when wrapping an item! Paper may seem expensive, but it is less expensive than replacing your fragile belongings!

Always keep the tops and bottoms of ceramic cookie jars or teapots together in the same bundle. If there is the possibility of an item being damaged, wrap them separately but pack them in the same packing box. Small glasses can be wrapped and then placed inside larger jars, canisters and vases. This may seem like extra work, but is actually safer for the smaller items.

Simple Things make life simpler

Setting up the workstation:
A suitable and comfortable workstation should always be employed to prevent fatigue and strain during the packing portion of a moving job. A kitchen or dining room table maybe used for this purpose. This is much easier than bending over and working off the floor. Always cover the table with a furniture pad or old blanket before placing any paper or items on the exposed surface.

Assembling the moving box:
A moving box should be assembled by folding the top flaps down using the small tabs to hold these flaps along the box sides. Next, the box should be "squared up." The bottom flaps are then overlapped and taped in place. Always use packing tape--do not simply interlock the bottom or top flaps.

There are three ways to tape an assembled moving box:
Use three strips of packing tape, making a cross on the top and bottom;
Put one strip down the middle seam, adding a strip along each of the two side seams;
Use three parallel--but not overlapping--strips on and along the middle seam.

Identifying the box:
The packed and sealed moving box should be clearly marked on at least two adjoining sides with the contents of the box and the room where the moving box should be placed at the destination. As much as possible, mark the contents of a box on its sides rather than on its top. This will make it easier to identify the contents for each box at the new residence.

Packing a moving truck is like cutting your own hair

Packing a moving truck is like cutting your own hair: The more you do it, the better you'll be at it. Here are tips to help things go more smoothly:

Load the heaviest items first: a fridge or piano. Move them to the front of the truck, and equalize the weight. Use moving pads or blankets to cover furniture and prevent damage (pillows, comforters, towels and cushions make good padding, too). Break down what you can (bed frames, for example) and fit them in where there's space.

You want a snug fit so that things are held in place - but not so compacted that boxes get crushed and items damaged. If you're moving just boxes, start loading from the front of the truck to the back. Begin with a cornerstone. "It's the package that sets the depth and height of your wall, and it's a sturdy one," hesaid. "Maybe 18 to 24 inches wide, by 12 to 24 high. That package is usually touching the last wall, the end of the trailer, and that sets the depth."

Heavier and sturdier packages go on the bottom, lighter ones on top. Build at least three shelves of boxes, rather than one tall (and unstable) column. For anything stacked above chest level, use a small stepladder.
Designate a loader. Others assisting with the move can bring things out to the truck, but it works best if one person is inside fitting pieces together and acting as the team quarterback.

Use all the space, not only so things don't shift during transit, but also for efficiency purposes.

The Box-In-Box packing method

While using a single corrugated box to ship items is possible in most instances, there are many situations when a single box just isn’t enough.  Why?  Because many single boxes endure sorting impact, over-the-road vibration, and other kinds of package handling situations that transfer directly to the fragile contents.   The Box-In-Box packing method is an effective way of protecting fragile items such as electronics, glassware or pottery from damage by packing the item in one box and placing the packed box in another box.

1. Wrap your product(s) individually with at least 2″ thickness of bubble wrap or foam material to fit snugly inside a corrugated box.
2. Place your wrapped product(s) in a box and make sure to restrict the movement inside the box using void fill like crumpledkraft paper or packing peanuts.
3. Close and tape the inner box to prevent accidental opening.
4. Use a second, outer container that is at least 6″ longer, wider and deeper than the inner box.
5. Choose the wrap or fill method to cushion the inner box inside the larger sturdy outer container.
6. Wrap the inner box with at least 4″ thickness of bubble wrapping material or use at least 3″ of packing peanuts or other cushioning material to fill the spaces between the inner box and outer container on the top, bottom and all sides.
7. Fill any void spaces with more cushioning material.
8. Seal your package with carton sealing tape and place the shipping label on the box.  Don’t forget a fragile label.

Lastly, even the best of packing jobs can end up getting damaged; therefore, we do recommend insuring your packages with your carrier.

Checklist of the Basic

Start with out-of-season items. Next, pack things used infrequently. Leave until last the things you'll need until moving day. Empty drawers of breakables, spillables, non-allowed items and anything that would puncture or damage other items. However, blankets, sweaters, lingerie, bath towels and similar soft, lightweight goods may be left in drawers. Pack similar items together. Do not pack a delicate china figurine in the same carton with cast-iron frying pans, for example. Keep all parts or pairs of things together. For example, curtain rod hangers, mirror bolts and other small hardware items should be placed in plastic or cloth bags and taped or tied securely to the article to which they belong. Wind electrical cords, fastening them so they do not dangle.

Wrap items individually in clean paper; use tissue paper, paper towels or even facial tissue for fine china, crystal and delicate items. Colored wrapping draws attention to very small things. Use a double layer of newspaper for a good outer wrapping.

Place a two- or three-inch layer of crushed paper in the bottom of a carton for cushioning. Build up in layers, with heaviest things on the bottom, medium weight next and lightest on top. As each layer is completed, fill in empty spaces firmly with crushed paper and add more crushed paper to make a level base for the next layer, or use sheets or cardboard cut from cartons as dividers. Cushion well with crushed paper; towels and lightweight blankets also may be used for padding and cushioning. The more fragile the item, the more cushioning needed. Be sure no sharp points, edges or rims are lift uncovered.

Pack small, fragile, individually wrapped items separately or a few together in small boxes, cushioning with crushed or shredded paper. Place small boxes in a single large box, filling in spaces with crushed paper.  Avoid overloading cartons, but strive for a firm pack that will prevent items from shifting; the cover should close easily without force, but should not bend inward.

Seal cartons tightly with tape.  As you finish with each carton, list the contents and/or room location on the side of the carton (for easy viewing while cartons are stacked) and in a special notebook. You might want to number and/or code the cartons as well. Put a special mark on cartons you want to unpack first.

Select the right carton for the right job

Select the right carton for the right job. For heavy items like books, wine, and tinned food use small cartons such as book cartons.Tip carton upside down to gain ready access to flaps on bottom of the carton. Fold opposite flaps of cartons. DO NOT interlock flaps.Tape bottom of carton securely. We recommend two thickness of packing tape.Line bottom of carton with padding - scrunched up paper, towels and linen may be used. Wrap all china and glassware pieces separately - then stack in carton on their ends or ends.

Breakable items, such as glassware, crockery, etc. should be wrapped individually in butchers' paper.

Ensure that the whole item is totally wrapped.After each layer of china or glassware place another layer of padding - ensure there is also sufficient padding on the sides of the carton and finally on the top. Save all your Tupperware and the like to fill the top half of a carton, then the carton is not too heavy and also there is not too much weight on top of your breakables.When placing layers of items within a carton, always use butchers paper (or equivalent) between each layer.

Fill all gaps between items with either butchers paper or some form of cushioning, this will decrease movement within the carton.A good rule of thumb, every one carton should have two-thirds china, one third padding.For ease of carriage, pack a mixture of light and heavy items in large cartons. Pack cartons right to the top or fill right to the top with padding. BUT DON'T OVERFILL.

The history of Folding carton

In the 1840s, cartons were made by hand and held together with tacks and string, and used only for expensive items (such as jewelry). Although Charles Henry Foyle is described by some as the "inventor" of the paper carton, mass production of the cartons was invented, partly by accident, at the Robert Gair Company in Brooklyn, New York.

Machinery at the end of the press had been set up carelessly by a pressman, and machinery cut through the material. This ruined the press but gave them an idea: printing and cutting could be done with one machine. Previously, cutting of printed cardboard had been done manually. From the mistake in 1879, Gair developed a process for mass production of boxes.

In 1897, the National Biscuit Company (Nabisco) became the first large company to adopt the new cartons, for Uneeda Biscuits. Other manufacturers soon followed. With inexpensive packaging now even common items could be placed in a showy carton and each carton became its own advertisement. The product was also protected, and the contents had a longer shelf life. This trend was to continue with force, through the 20th century.

This could be seen as a contributing factor in the so-called 'throwaway' culture of America. The environmental impact of product packaging has gained attention from consumers and businesses alike, and this awareness has created a steady trend since the mid to late 1990s, on the part of manufacturers, to use recycled material and/or reduce overall materials usage.